|
|
 |
Author |
|
| Message | |
|
ksia
Joined: 17 May 2006
Posts: 2105
Location: Mayenne, France
|
 Posted: Wed Nov 18, 09 9:51 am Post subject: Cracks between floorboards |
 
|
Having now discovered that the cracks between floorboards harbour much muck - and at the moment much catty-fleas - I'd like to try to fill in the gaps between boards in our flooring.
In one room we've got new 'standard' pine floorboards. In the other, old 7 cm wide pine boards.
I'd thought of dribbling in molten candle wax? Or do I just apply loads and loads of floor polish? Or is there another way?
Advice much appreciated. |
|
|
|
 |
Gervase
Joined: 17 Nov 2004
Posts: 7001
Location: Ceredigion, West Wales
|
| Posted: Wed Nov 18, 09 9:57 am Post subject: |
|
How wide are the gaps?
Traditionally papier mache caulking is used for narrow gaps. For wide gaps, tapering fillets of softwood, planed down level with the boards and then stained, are used. Both work well.
There are modern plastic fillets with a springy 'V' profile that work quite well on gaps over about 4mm. |
|
|
|
|
Treacodactyl
Downsizer Moderator
Joined: 28 Oct 2004
Posts: 19588
Location: In the pond with the frogs
|
| Posted: Wed Nov 18, 09 10:17 am Post subject: |
|
If the gaps are only 1mm or so wide would PVA wood glue and a sprinkling of fine sawdust not work? Or would it just crack as the floor moves? |
|
|
|
|
JB
Joined: 08 Jun 2005
Posts: 5600
Location: Sitting in a corner gently beating my head against the wall
|
| Posted: Wed Nov 18, 09 10:23 am Post subject: |
|
Won't boards move as temperature and humifity change and so just open up the cracks again? |
|
|
|
|
ksia
Joined: 17 May 2006
Posts: 2105
Location: Mayenne, France
|
| Posted: Wed Nov 18, 09 10:28 am Post subject: |
|
Ta.
Most of the gaps are 1 to 3 mm.
Some are wider - so the tapered wood bits is a good idea for these, ta Gervase.
Despite using wood glue and sawdust many a time on joints, I'd not thought of it for the floorboard gaps! - definitely a goer, ta Treacodactyl. I'll try it on a bit - the living room floor is much more solid and unmoving than the kitchen so it could/should work.
The old kitchen floor is more creaky and bouncy so something more flexible might be needed.
Papier mache - just paper and paste Gervase? |
|
|
|
|
ksia
Joined: 17 May 2006
Posts: 2105
Location: Mayenne, France
|
| Posted: Wed Nov 18, 09 10:30 am Post subject: |
|
| JB wrote: |
| Won't boards move as temperature and humifity change and so just open up the cracks again? |
Don't know! But if the gaps are now much smaller and floor-wax will fill in the rest, that's ok.
Any other thoughts out there? |
|
|
|
|
SmattyB
Joined: 26 Oct 2006
Posts: 104
Location: Now available in Oxford.
|
|
|
|
|
stumbling goat
Joined: 20 Jan 2009
Posts: 677
|
| Posted: Wed Nov 18, 09 11:38 am Post subject: |
|
before you fill gaps it might be worth investigating to see why the floor is so bouncy and creaky? if the joists require work better to find out now and repair them before finalising the fixing of the boards.
sg |
|
|
|
|
Treacodactyl
Downsizer Moderator
Joined: 28 Oct 2004
Posts: 19588
Location: In the pond with the frogs
|
| Posted: Wed Nov 18, 09 11:54 am Post subject: |
|
| JB wrote: |
| Won't boards move as temperature and humifity change and so just open up the cracks again? |
Possibly. Since we installed central heating and cleared the air vents our floor boards have shrunk a bit. They don't seem to change too much now, I'm not sure the glue would work but I've had it suggested to me. Any new cracks might be small enough for the wax to fill.
I bet when we move then new people will have the heating on much more and the gaps will expand again. |
|
|
|
|
Lorrainelovesplants
Joined: 13 Oct 2006
Posts: 1445
Location: Cornwall
|
| Posted: Wed Nov 18, 09 5:19 pm Post subject: |
|
We have wooden floors and a great void underneath and loads of air vents which whoosh a gale through them. The floor in the living room is cold. Could we just go below and seal some of the vents? |
|
|
|
|
sean
Downsizer Moderator
Joined: 28 Oct 2004
Posts: 28908
Location: North Devon
|
| Posted: Wed Nov 18, 09 5:25 pm Post subject: |
|
Nooooooooo. You need the below floor ventilation (which the previous owners of our house didn't realise). Seal the gaps, but really really don't block the airbricks. |
|
|
|
|
Behemoth
Joined: 01 Dec 2004
Posts: 14667
Location: Leeds
|
| Posted: Wed Nov 18, 09 5:26 pm Post subject: |
|
Ventilation prevent condensation and rot. But you can have too much. Be wary of blocking vents under floors. |
|
|
|
|
Gervase
Joined: 17 Nov 2004
Posts: 7001
Location: Ceredigion, West Wales
|
| Posted: Wed Nov 18, 09 5:26 pm Post subject: |
|
Nooo!
You need air circulating under the floor, otherwise your joists will rot. |
|
|
|
|
nettie
Joined: 02 Dec 2004
Posts: 5627
Location: Suffolk
|
| Posted: Wed Nov 18, 09 5:53 pm Post subject: |
|
What about transparent bathroom silicone sealant for the bigger cracks? |
|
|
|
|
Gervase
Joined: 17 Nov 2004
Posts: 7001
Location: Ceredigion, West Wales
|
| Posted: Wed Nov 18, 09 5:58 pm Post subject: |
|
Messy and nasty! Slivers of softwood would be best for wider cracks. If you've got access to a table saw they're a doddle to make - cant the blade at a very slight angle to get a wedge-shaped profile to the fillets and just knock 'em in. Use a plane or chisel to get them down to board level and you'll have a professional-looking job. |
|
|
|
|
|
View Latest Posts