Insulating the outside of a single brick skin building

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Insulating the outside of a single brick skin building

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stumbling goat

Joined: 20 Jan 2009
Posts: 1990

Posted: Sun Dec 15, 13 12:36 pm Post subject: Insulating the outside of a single brick skin building

Hoping that someone can give me some suggestions please?

I have a single brick skin building that I wish to make better insulated against the cold. Currently it is timber clad. It has rounded ends.

Once I have stripped off the timber cladding I am hoping to find a way to insulate it with at least 2"/50mm celotex or similar, more if I can and then reclad it in timber, or coloured UPVc cladding. I also have to work out a way of accommodating the inward opening door. That may be got around with a steel frame fixed to the existing brick door surround?

Is there some art of aluminium fixing that I can use to fix to the single brick skin that will then take an anchor for the new cladding? Or will I have to think again and maybe insulate the inside? That would be easier but I would lose valuable space from an already small room.

sg

Nature'sgrafter

Joined: 22 Feb 2012
Posts: 527
Location: Sanday , Orkney

Posted: Sun Dec 15, 13 2:22 pm Post subject:
something like this https://www.jewson.co.uk/building-materials/thermal-insulation/multi-foils-insulation/products/IYSQ1410/ybs-superquilt-multi-layered-foil-insulation-10-x-15m/ is what you need stapled onto existing timber frame add thin batten on top to fix your cladding onto job done.

Ty Gwyn

Joined: 22 Sep 2010
Posts: 4563
Location: Lampeter

Posted: Sun Dec 15, 13 3:13 pm Post subject:
The one question i would ask before you spend is, Has it got a damp course,wall and floor.?

onemanband

Joined: 26 Dec 2010
Posts: 1473
Location: NCA90

Posted: Sun Dec 15, 13 3:23 pm Post subject:
Silly questions ? ........ Will your roof overhang allow for extra 2 inches ? Why do you need to move door ?

stumbling goat

Joined: 20 Jan 2009
Posts: 1990

Posted: Sun Dec 15, 13 9:41 pm Post subject:
Not silly questions at all OMB. The roof issue is not a problem. It is all under a huge canopy. The DPM is an issue but as I can not control that or affect it I have to accept that it may be compromised. That said, I shall leave it off the ground by 100mm, so the brisk skin is on footings, but the outer covering will be floating by 100mm ish. sg

onemanband

Joined: 26 Dec 2010
Posts: 1473
Location: NCA90

Posted: Sun Dec 15, 13 11:49 pm Post subject:

If you've got plenty roof overhang, what about building a seperate outer leaf instead of using batons?
2 courses of brick, then dpc, then 4X2 sole plate, then stud wall and cladding.
It's cladding not a load bearing wall so footings for brickwork can be minimal.
Provide lateral restraint to stud wall with metal straps and/or fit 4X2 head plate to canopy.

I don't deal with timber cavity walls so can't comment on vapour barriers and insulation methods.

boisdevie1

Joined: 11 Aug 2006
Posts: 3897
Location: Lancaster

Posted: Mon Dec 16, 13 10:28 am Post subject:

onemanband wrote:

That's overkill. You don't need brick. The roof is already supported so you just need a skin of insulation, waterproof membrane and then something decorative (T and G) to hide it all.

onemanband

Joined: 26 Dec 2010
Posts: 1473
Location: NCA90

Posted: Mon Dec 16, 13 6:25 pm Post subject:

boisdevie1 wrote:

onemanband wrote:

That's overkill. You don't need brick. The roof is already supported so you just need a skin of insulation, waterproof membrane and then something decorative (T and G) to hide it all.

I wasn't suggesting supporting the roof.
The 2 courses of brickwork (not a full height brick wall, just 2 courses above ground) are a suitable material to have in contact with the ground and will fill the 100mm gap SG mentioned. This would provide means of incorporating a dpc, eliminate a cold spot caused by starting cladding and insulation 100mm up, and probably look better than a gap under cladding or cladding touching the ground.
A separate outer leaf will enable fitment of more insulation, provide a cavity and eliminate cold bridging.
More work - yes
Overkill - I'd say no - but that's coming from someone whose just built a garden wall 1 foot thick, 8 foot high.

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