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welshboy454
Joined: 21 May 2009
Posts: 90
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 Posted: Sun Nov 08, 09 5:44 pm Post subject: Masonry Stove High efficiency wood fuel |
 
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When we renovated our old farmhouse we came across an old redundant doorway which needed addressing.
I had been interested in masonry stoves for a while and the opportunity to try it just seemed to be calling out to fill in this gap.
Masonry Stove-
These things have their roots in cold climates where every bit of heat needs to be utilised rather than our traditional open fires which are highly inefficient.
You may have heard of them as being Russian/Finnish stoves or heaters.
The idea is that you burn a very fierce fire maximum burn so that the firebox gets very very hot. Every bit of energy is converted into heat as it even cracks the water vapour in the wood from h2o into h h o and that burns as well. No smoke !
This heat circulates through a series of chambers with a large thermal mass absorbing the heat like a night storage heater does.
Once the fire dies down you close a damper high up which traps the heat and stops it escaping up the chimney.- They are reckoned to be 90% efficient while an open fire is 10% efficient.
I got the plans from Missouri stove Plans. http://www.dnr.mo.gov/pubs/pub781.pdf
It kept us warm for the last 2 winters.
These things can be quite fancy take a look at
http://mha-net.org/html/gallery.htm
There's plenty of pics
I built ours so that the business end is in a boiler room attached at the back of the house. The only thing you can see inside the house is a brick wall exuding heat.
You would need about 12-16 ft of chamber channels above the firebox and a closing damper at the top next to the exit into the chimney.
This is an alternative design idea which retains the traditional fireplace look:
http://www.grannysstore.com/Do-It-Yourself/masonry_stoves.htm
Couple of pictures of our setup
This is the Firebox 27 inches deep by 18 inches wide by 18 inches highdeep See how clean the burn is -no carbon /soot deposits.
This is the business end in a boilerroom annex.
Going up the firebox door,next 3 cleanout points for the 3 U shaped flueways and at the top the damper to trap the heat in.
This is the living area and the brick wall between the inglenook and the corner is the rear safety wall for the stove.
The side wall for the inglenook also gives off heat but being thicker is slower to respond.
This is the other side of the masonry heater in the kitchen ie the right hand side of the inglenook.
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gz
Joined: 23 Jan 2009
Posts: 1411
Location: S.E. Wales
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| Posted: Sun Nov 08, 09 5:55 pm Post subject: |
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Interesting- I like the brick one with cookstove and bread oven...  |
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vegplot
Joined: 19 Apr 2007
Posts: 11009
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| Posted: Sun Nov 08, 09 6:07 pm Post subject: |
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I'd love to see one to see how it was constructed. |
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gz
Joined: 23 Jan 2009
Posts: 1411
Location: S.E. Wales
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Chez
Joined: 13 Aug 2006
Posts: 14995
Location: Quantock Hills, Somerset
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| Posted: Sun Nov 08, 09 6:54 pm Post subject: |
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Sorry that this is a Daily Hate link, but it's got quite good photos of a similar principle - less initial heat, I think, but the HUGE heat-sink idea is there.
Clicky |
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Bebo
Joined: 21 May 2007
Posts: 6007
Location: East Sussex
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| Posted: Sun Nov 08, 09 10:31 pm Post subject: |
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I'm sure the one in the link Chez put up is very effective, but it's hideous looking. I think I'd rather be cold than have to have that in my living room. |
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gz
Joined: 23 Jan 2009
Posts: 1411
Location: S.E. Wales
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| Posted: Mon Nov 09, 09 7:55 am Post subject: |
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I think the point is that you can put on the outside whatever fits in with your space, be it brick, stone or tiles  |
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