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lowri
Joined: 18 Oct 2006
Posts: 806
Location: ceredigion
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 Posted: Thu Sep 10, 09 7:59 am Post subject: RoundUp/glyphosate Question |
 
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I have a small plot that was once part of a market garden, best depth of soil on the place. It has got completely encroached by bracken, couch, goosegrass, bindweed, nettles, ghastly wild parsnip, brambles, etc.
Aside from the unethical bit, what I want to know is: if I apply RoundUp or glyphosate, will it affect the daffodil bulbs that have been there forever and I would like to see next year?
Pigs are out of the question as an alternative, obviously, and at my age I am not keen on bringing in any more livestock. I don't think strimming or brushcutting is the answer, and as for rototilling, the stuff on top will have to be shifted first, and I thought rototilling just cuts the roots into smaller bits, ad nauseam. I just want a reasonable bit of land to work on, in the shortest possible time, and then to grow a few veg, there is nowhere else suitable.
Is this Pie in the Sky? |
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marigold
Joined: 02 Sep 2005
Posts: 8123
Location: West Sussex
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| Posted: Thu Sep 10, 09 8:12 am Post subject: |
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Glyphosphate is absorbed through the leaves of the plant, so dormant bulbs should be unaffected if you apply it now. You may need more than one application on dense growth. |
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orangepippin
Joined: 28 Jul 2006
Posts: 3181
Location: East Yorkshire
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| Posted: Thu Sep 10, 09 12:29 pm Post subject: |
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I don't see anything wrong with using glyphosate to get a plot under control. Good luck turning pie in the sky to a nice veg patch. I was told if the vegetation is completely overgrown, you should brushcut / strim the stuff down first, then leave it a bit, then apply the glyphos. Not sure about time of year to do that though. |
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Bluedog
Joined: 06 Jan 2009
Posts: 431
Location: Dartmoor
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| Posted: Wed Sep 23, 09 6:49 pm Post subject: |
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As a tip, fertilise about a week before you apply round up and when you do add it put a couple of drops of fairy liquid in the can. Glyphosate works its best when the plant is in full growth surge and if you fertalise the weeds (yeah I know its odd but the science is there) the glyphosate will be absorbed quicker into the plant and you are less likely to get that hit and miss result you can sometimes get. |
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beean
Joined: 04 Jun 2009
Posts: 207
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| Posted: Fri Sep 25, 09 8:15 am Post subject: |
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We've a small amount of very overgrown river-bank opposite our house, which I would really like to get under control. It's full of ground elder, brambles, and the like.
Is gypsophylate a no-no close to water? Common sense suggests to me that it probably is, but am sure someone here knows for sure? |
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Rob R
Joined: 28 Oct 2004
Posts: 16821
Location: York
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| Posted: Fri Sep 25, 09 8:24 am Post subject: |
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| orangepippin wrote: |
| I was told if the vegetation is completely overgrown, you should brushcut / strim the stuff down first, then leave it a bit, then apply the glyphos. Not sure about time of year to do that though. |
That's right- it needs to be actively growing to get the best distribution throughout the plant, so getting it on early in the spring with perhaps a second application if you get some re-growth or cut and wait for the regrowth, as you say, providing the soil temperature is 5 degrees+. |
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Bluedog
Joined: 06 Jan 2009
Posts: 431
Location: Dartmoor
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| Posted: Fri Sep 25, 09 3:32 pm Post subject: |
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| Rob R wrote: |
| orangepippin wrote: |
| I was told if the vegetation is completely overgrown, you should brushcut / strim the stuff down first, then leave it a bit, then apply the glyphos. Not sure about time of year to do that though. |
That's right- it needs to be actively growing to get the best distribution throughout the plant, so getting it on early in the spring with perhaps a second application if you get some re-growth or cut and wait for the regrowth, as you say, providing the soil temperature is 5 degrees+. |
The only problem with that is that Glyphosate is a foliar herbicide. It needs leaves to be truly effective as it is absorbed through the leaves, so if you strim the leaves it will not have any access. |
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Bluedog
Joined: 06 Jan 2009
Posts: 431
Location: Dartmoor
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| Posted: Fri Sep 25, 09 3:34 pm Post subject: |
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| beean wrote: |
We've a small amount of very overgrown river-bank opposite our house, which I would really like to get under control. It's full of ground elder, brambles, and the like.
Is gypsophylate a no-no close to water? Common sense suggests to me that it probably is, but am sure someone here knows for sure? |
Strictly speaking you are not allowed to use anything near a river bank and rightly so..... |
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beean
Joined: 04 Jun 2009
Posts: 207
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| Posted: Fri Sep 25, 09 4:02 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks, bluedog: I was kind of expecting that to be the answer, but then am no scientist when it comes to understanding how these things work! |
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Rob R
Joined: 28 Oct 2004
Posts: 16821
Location: York
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| Posted: Fri Sep 25, 09 6:51 pm Post subject: |
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| Bluedog wrote: |
| Rob R wrote: |
| orangepippin wrote: |
| I was told if the vegetation is completely overgrown, you should brushcut / strim the stuff down first, then leave it a bit, then apply the glyphos. Not sure about time of year to do that though. |
That's right- it needs to be actively growing to get the best distribution throughout the plant, so getting it on early in the spring with perhaps a second application if you get some re-growth or cut and wait for the regrowth, as you say, providing the soil temperature is 5 degrees+. |
The only problem with that is that Glyphosate is a foliar herbicide. It needs leaves to be truly effective as it is absorbed through the leaves, so if you strim the leaves it will not have any access. |
Hence the need to wait for regrowth- fresh new leaves absorb much more of the chemical than older, darker leaves do. If it doesn't re-grow then you know it is not the right time of year to apply it. |
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Bluedog
Joined: 06 Jan 2009
Posts: 431
Location: Dartmoor
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| Posted: Fri Sep 25, 09 7:52 pm Post subject: |
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Yeah but then you are waiting for it to re-grow... If you just add some fairy liquid and feed everything a week before you spray it will do the job of strimming and you can do it weeks before waiting for the plant to recover... |
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Rob R
Joined: 28 Oct 2004
Posts: 16821
Location: York
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| Posted: Sat Sep 26, 09 7:54 am Post subject: |
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Sorry, I appear to have stumbled into the paralell anti-downsizer forum by mistake. Ignore me. |
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Bluedog
Joined: 06 Jan 2009
Posts: 431
Location: Dartmoor
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| Posted: Sat Sep 26, 09 10:05 am Post subject: |
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| Rob R wrote: |
| Sorry, I appear to have stumbled into the paralell anti-downsizer forum by mistake. Ignore me. |
Eh? |
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Rob R
Joined: 28 Oct 2004
Posts: 16821
Location: York
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| Posted: Sat Sep 26, 09 10:27 am Post subject: |
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Weakening the plant and then hitting it when it is at it's most vulnerable is a lower-input method of using glyphosate (if you find you have to use it at all), more in line with the downsizerish principles. |
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Bluedog
Joined: 06 Jan 2009
Posts: 431
Location: Dartmoor
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| Posted: Sat Sep 26, 09 11:18 am Post subject: |
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| Rob R wrote: |
| Weakening the plant and then hitting it when it is at it's most vulnerable is a lower-input method of using glyphosate (if you find you have to use it at all), more in line with the downsizerish principles. |
Surely just using it raises "downsizer" issues, so a better answer would be to try and come up with better ways, more non toxic ways to do the job, but they would have to include not using any form of covering or in fact strimming as both methods would have used petrochemicals to get the same job done.
In answer to the OP's original question then no, the daffs wont be effected, they will die back as most plants will but as with almost all underground storage plants they will sit and brood for a while but they will be fine.
As I have said before on here, I went to a trade show once and watched a Round up rep drink a capful of roundup.... |
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