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Tanning a hide- 10 easy steps to a well cured pelt or hide.
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dpack



Joined: 02 Jul 2005
Posts: 32618
Location: yes
PostPosted: Tue Dec 15, 09 9:39 pm    Post subject:  Reply with quote    

a wire dog brush works wonders on fur/dags

less wriggling with a skin as well

Stormcrow



Joined: 17 May 2006
Posts: 33
Location: Lincolnshire
PostPosted: Thu Aug 12, 10 2:11 pm    Post subject: sheepskin Reply with quote    

We have just started working on our first sheepskin and are following your 10 point plan. The scraping is now done and we have put it in the pickle. However, we noticed that after scraping the wool was peeling from the skin in patches. Have we done something wrong?

Pea



Joined: 19 Sep 2005
Posts: 959
Location: Rugby
PostPosted: Mon Jan 10, 11 4:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote    

I have used Sally's recipe on a sheep skin which worked really well but I have since been told that the salt and alum only preserve it and not to get it wet. It is on the bedroom floor so will never get wet.

With this in mind I spoke to Snowdonia Taxidermists as I want to use the next skins (rabbit and fox) for a hat and boot liners, which may get wet. They advised me that I would need a process that is irreversible, so getting the pelt wet then would not be a problem.

There are so many different processes it is a minefield. I am finding the rabbit skins very difficult to scrape as they are so thin.

Welshy



Joined: 25 Jun 2011
Posts: 38
Location: North Wales
PostPosted: Mon Jun 27, 11 6:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote    

Thanks for sharing how to do that as I am in the process of getting some meat rabbits for breeding for an continues supply of meat

...and come to think of it the fur I could use to make a throw for my sofa

regan



Joined: 06 Aug 2013
Posts: 1

PostPosted: Tue Aug 06, 13 11:09 am    Post subject: tanning Reply with quote    

ive used this method for a couple years, have done bobby calves, possums, deer skins and have currently started a cattle hide, i think it works good. when im doing small skins i stretch it and nail it to a board, i make a mixture and add flour to make a paste and brush a layer on every day for a week then wash it off, i find this works better then soaking it in a barrel especially on small game skins. i also sand the skin with fine sandpaper before i oil it, brings it up real good. im hoping this cattle hide turns out, its the biggest skin ive done.

id love to know a quicker way to remove fat then using a knife as this process sucks.

sally_in_wales
Downsizer Moderator


Joined: 06 Mar 2005
Posts: 20809
Location: sunny wales
PostPosted: Tue Aug 06, 13 11:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote    

what an interesting variation, I'll give that a try sometime. Does ambient humidity affect the flour based process? Round here its so soggy I can imagine a flour paste absorbing a lot of moisture even under cover?

SteveP



Joined: 23 Jan 2008
Posts: 155
Location: North Devon
PostPosted: Sat Nov 12, 16 8:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote    

Sorry about re-awakening an old thread but how do you safely dispose of the salt and alum mix when you have a septic tank instead of mains drainage?

Tipping it onto the ground will kill it and the salts will leach out further than where it was tipped. There is no disposal tank at the council tip for that stuff. An unscrupulous person would use the road drain but there must be a legal safe method.

Treacodactyl
Downsizer Moderator


Joined: 28 Oct 2004
Posts: 25697
Location: Jumping on the bandwagon of opportunism
PostPosted: Sat Nov 12, 16 9:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote    

We have this problem as well. Having tried to do the right thing and take old car coolant to the tip and then see the tip personnel throw it into the landfill skip it would seem most stuff will end up in landfill.

With that in mind I've mixed small amounts of stuff with fire ash and other absorbent material and put it in the rubbish.

Longer term I'll sort out some form of solar drier to evaporate as much water as possible first.

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