It's probably better (than shown in that graphic) to mount the fan 'in line' on one of the ceiling joists. You can also put some rubber dampers between the fan fixing holes and the joist to help prevent the fan noise transmitting through the structure. |
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dpack |
vent via pipe through roof void is best,the window ones are ugly and often noisy and sometimes crack the glass on a regular basis.
remember to get a top quality flap valve to prevent cold drafts entering the bathroom and have an isolating switch so as to be able to choose if it is off or on ,the ones that are on for ten mins even if the light is on for 10 seconds while you count the toothpaste or whatever are unnecessary waste of heat .another advantage of an isolating switch is you can have a bath in a quiet warm room and ventilate the steam after you exit. the point about rubber fan mounts is valid but the choice of fan is probably the biggest factor in noise issues.the one we have sounds like an f16 |
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OtleyLad |
There are also systems where the fan sits in the middle of the ducting (i.e. in the loft/roof space) rather than at the bathroom end.
These are much quieter in operation. |
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Cathryn |
Great advice from you all, thank you very much! | ||
onemanband |
Search "slate vent extractor fan" or similar. About £25 for a vented tile to connect extractor to. Bit late if you've just done roof but can be retro fitted.
"in-line fan" is what Otleylad refers to. Then there's fans with humidistats. And iris fans if you want reduced back draft and "a touch of elegance"(according to the video) |
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dpack |
reduced back draft reduces back drafts and that is good
or use a shower hat over the fan |