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tahir

Draughts

Now that I've got an action plan for damp how do I deal with my draft problems, the main problem areas are:

1. Double glazing (UPVC)
Many of the windows don't shut tight, a lot of panes have lost their seal

2. Fireplace
We've got an unused fireplace, I boarded it up when we moved in but still plenty draughty.

3. 2nd front door
We've got 2 front doors, one's a double glazed porch, the other is a wooden one, totally unused but highly draughty. I had considered putting some kind of impermeable membrane up and then boarding it, is that a wise thing seeing as the door is mouldy on the inside and has algae growing on the outside?
Behemoth

Is this the one you're going to knock down?
tahir

Yup
Behemoth

So aesthetics and long terms solutions are not an issue.

Glazing sealant around the windows panes. You'll have to fiddle with the hinges to get them to shut. Alternatively wodges of draft excluder.

Stuff the chimney/fireplace with insultation and screw board over the top, sealing with expandable foam.

Kick out the door and frame and brick up the gap with breeze blocks. You could do that to the windows too.
tahir

Behemoth wrote:
Stuff the chimney/fireplace with insultation and screw board over the top, sealing with expandable foam.


Sounds good and easily doable

Quote:
Kick out the door and frame and brick up the gap with breeze blocks.


£££s, I ain't got the time to do it, plus the wall outside is pebbledashed and painted, the missus is unlikely to let me leave it unfinished on the outside.
Northern_Lad

tahir wrote:
...the missus is unlikely to let me leave it unfinished on the outside.


Lock her inside and tell her it's done. If she starts to complain then tell her she's lucky to have a fitted path-panel.
Behemoth

tahir wrote:
£££s, I ain't got the time to do it, plus the wall outside is pebbledashed and painted, the missus is unlikely to let me leave it unfinished on the outside.


Can't see it'll be much different in cost than dealing with boarding, membranes and presumably plastering. In terms of labour I reckon both would take a day and blocks are cheap.

Since it's going to be levelled I'm not sure that the pebble dash is something to worry about and if it's a real problem some masonary paint can blend it in with the walls. However, I understand that reason may have no place in this dicussion.
tahir

Behemoth wrote:
I understand that reason may have no place in this dicussion.


I'm glad you appreciate that....
MarkS

leave the surplus door in place, seal round it with mastic/taper wahtever, slap a lump of insulation agin it, board over on the inside.

Outside still has door, draughts gone, inside looks neatish.

Learn chess instead.
tahir

MarkS wrote:
Learn chess instead.


Can't be dealing with all them prawns
tahir

MarkS wrote:
leave the surplus door in place, seal round it with mastic/taper wahtever, slap a lump of insulation agin it, board over on the inside.


That was my initial plan, just worried that the door's going to rot
Northern_Lad

tahir wrote:
That was my initial plan, just worried that the door's going to rot


I doubt that'll be a problem before you knock the place down anyway.
tahir

Northern_Lad wrote:
I doubt that'll be a problem before you knock the place down anyway.


Dunno, even if Mk II goes through without a hitch I reckon we'll be here for at least 2 yrs, and the door is mouldy on the inside and algal on the outside
Mary-Jane

We have big heavy curtains on rails behind our main doors (both of which are temporary doors...well, for the next 5-10 years) which when drawn at night keep the draughts out very well.
dougal

Re: Draughts

tahir wrote:
Now that I've got an action plan for damp how do I deal with my draft problems, the main problem areas are:

1. Double glazing (UPVC)
Many of the windows don't shut tight, a lot of panes have lost their seal
Use ordinary window draught excluder (from a roll).
There are different types that are optimal for different width gaps.
Get a variety, and use whatever suits each gap.

The stuff is cheap and makes a big difference.

Since it is double glazed, no need to faff with shrink film temporary double glazing, or changing curtains.

A little ventilation is a good thing, and many dg frames have "trickle" vents to allow a controlled amount of air change.

DON'T enthusiastically draught seal any room that has a fire, gas heater or gas cooker. Flames need air otherwise there's a *real* risk of CO (carbon monoxide) poisoning. Good way to go, get dopey, fall asleep, never wake up - but only when you intend to go.

tahir wrote:
2. Fireplace
We've got an unused fireplace, I boarded it up when we moved in but still plenty draughty.
You can bung up the 'neck' (the narrow bit just out of sight above the fire. Its the smallest opening. Actually a good idea (reducing damp, rot, etc) to embed a small tube (hosepipe?) through your blockage so that there is still a little (but only a little) airflow. There's a commercial thing called a "chimney balloon" to act as a convenient temporary bung. It the fire is ever possibly going to be used, leave a coloured string (or the end of your hosepipe offcut) showing, so anyone would have to notice it before lighting a fire... Rolling Eyes
However, with the hole blocked off, you don't have to board over the fireplace (unless you prefer that look) - neverthless, make your seal at the smaller 'neck'.

tahir wrote:
3. 2nd front door
We've got 2 front doors, one's a double glazed porch, the other is a wooden one, totally unused but highly draughty. I had considered putting some kind of impermeable membrane up and then boarding it, is that a wise thing seeing as the door is mouldy on the inside and has algae growing on the outside?
If you do anything, its going to take some time/money/effort.
I'd start by using a pressure washer on the outside, then a fungicidal wash both sides. Then some fresh paint (prob loaded with fungicide). BTW, there are resin fillers specifically for rotting wood...
You might care to use foam filler round the edges of the door, and then cover that with greenhouse (outdoor) tape all round the door edge, both outside and in. (Same treatment for keyholes, letterbox, whatever). Paint over the tape so it shows less.
For a neater treatment, finish by getting some plywood cut to the exact size and nailed over and then finally painted.

Shouldn't take too long!
AnneandMike

When you say your DG has lost its seal, do you mean the DG panels are misted up inside? If so, it cannot be fixed but it is quite cheap to replace them ( much cheaper than installing DG in the first place - say ~£40 for a 3 foot square piece. Some businesses specialise in this.
dpack

if you dont need to open it gaffertape ,1000g per m plastic,fixerfoam,silicone mastic( and 4/1 mortar for mouseholes )are the materials to use
if it must open a blanket or curtain helps as can well fitted excluder strip
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