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Nick

Gravel driveway construction

Our driveway is gravel and needs redoing. We did it about seven years ago, but the gravel has gone, sunk into the mud, and greenery is growing through it. We park on it, and, obviously, drive on it. Our soil is wet and the water table is often not far below, sometimes above.

I'm assuming a water permeable membrane would prevent the mud coming up, and the gravel going down, and keep it more gravelly, longer. Or do I want the plastic grid type things?

Any experience here, please?

Area to be covered is about 30m x 6m.
Ty Gwyn

Personally i would`nt bother with the membrane after seeing a drive that had been done a few years previously,

Dig out and replace with hardcore,get a layer of big stones in the base then a layer of fist size to level with,roll down ,then lay your gravel.
oldish chris

Personally i would`nt bother with the membrane after seeing a drive that had been done a few years previously,

Dig out and replace with hardcore,get a layer of big stones in the base then a layer of fist size to level with,roll down ,then lay your gravel.
I'm sure I've come across this idea before: http://www.historic-uk.com/HistoryUK/HistoryofEngland/Roman-Roads-in-England/

and I have! Sometimes drives made as Ty Gwyn suggests last for quite a few years Wink
Nick

Yeah, time and budget doesn't really allow for that method, and weeds would still grow.

Back to the question, then.
sean

I reckon plastic grid things then. The membrane pores will just clog up.
Falstaff

When constructing soakaways or French drains or hardstandings on site we always use Terram as the containing envelope.
onemanband

On soft/wet ground lay matting first to stop mud mixing with base material. Then as deep a base as you can be bothered/afford. On good ground, that's at least 4 or 6 inches of hardcore. Roll. Then add an inch or two of MOT(crushed granite). Roll. Add a THIN layer of gravel and roll into MOT. Then another THIN gravel layer.
Ideally the gravel should be 2 pieces of gravel deep - first layer rolled into Mot , the second layer to fill the gaps.

Regardless of construction, gravel drives will get weeds. Seeds land, they grow.
kGarden

I don't know much about it, but we too have a gravel drive. There is some hardcore under it, but the gravel disappears over time, and as it gets thinner more weeds grow and have to be tackled.

We top up the gravel every few years, and the thicker layer reduces the weed seed germination.

If yours has lasted 7 years since last topped up maybe all it needs is a top-up?
onemanband

Yeah, time and budget doesn't really allow for that method, and weeds would still grow.

Back to the question, then.


Quick and cheap ?

Don't lay membrane over existing and chuck gravel on. That will be easy to keep weed free, but you will wheelspin and tear or ruck the membrane.

Suggest pull out weeds (I don't like weedkiller as you leave organic matter behind for future weeds), rake off loose gravel, dig out soft spots, fill holes and 're-level' with MOT(couple of ton?), hire 'wacker' or roller etc. etc
Get 10ton(?) loose tip gravel delivery - far cheaper than dumpy bags - and get the driver to tip as he drives down drive.
Nick

I was planning on using a mini digger to remove the top 3-4 inches off,which is gravel, with mud and greenery, and throwing it in and around a field gateway to firm it up a bit, popping down membrane and covering in 3-4 inches of gravel. But you reckon some MOT might be better? And roll it flat. onemanband

If you are a boy racer and want to wheelspin and drift down your drive then 3-4 inches of gravel is cool.
If you want a more sedately entrance then a well compacted base with a minimal covering of gravel rolled into it, is what you want.
Rob R

Just make sure the gravel has plenty of sand in it and add a few bags of cement Cool Hairyloon

Just make sure the gravel has plenty of sand in it and add a few bags of cement Cool
My drive is made like that. I still get weeds growing through it...
RichardW

I thought that adding lime was the standard method for keeping weeds down? onemanband

I thought that adding lime was the standard method for keeping weeds down?

Not heard of that. Makes sense. I have an old bag of lime and a weedy area (despite a foot of hardcore, the lack of traffic means the adjacent planted area soon colonizes it)
I shall report back next year Smile
Nick

What would large scale addition of lime to my drive do to the water beneath, that ends up in my well? wellington womble

Give you limescale. Nick

Yeah, we plenty of that already. I mean if it kills plants, does it harm other things?

Eta. Can't find anything to suggest it kills weeds, just raises the pH. Not so good for drinking water.
Rob R

I thought that adding lime was the standard method for keeping weeds down?

Not heard of that. Makes sense. I have an old bag of lime and a weedy area (despite a foot of hardcore, the lack of traffic means the adjacent planted area soon colonizes it)
I shall report back next year Smile

It doesn't work - we've got weeds growing on 18 inch of limestone.
Mistress Rose

Depends on what 'lime' you are using. Calcium hydroxide will raise the pH and is not a good idea for drinking water. For anyone living in an acid soil area, it will be neutralised, but slowly.

Chalk or limestone are basically a mixture of calcium carbonate, calcium bicarbonate and calcium sulphate with a few other things thrown in. They are a lot less alkaline, and will only affect plants that are lime intolerant.

From what you have posted Nick, I don't think any sort of lime on your drive is going to stop the weeds, and won't be good for your well.
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