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JB

I need to make an axle

What should I use to make an axle for a trolley? I've ordered a couple of wheels with a 16mm bore from fleabay but what should I use to make the axle and what do I use to stop the wheels falling off?
vegplot

Spilt pin, through a hole in the axle, and large washer each side of the wheel would be fine assuming it's hand trolley.

As for the axle a steel tube would work if you can find one a make up stub axle if you have a welder.
dpack

i must have missed submit which makes a refreshing change from double posting

i have bent a few barrow axles and recon the strongest you can find to fit through the wheels is a good idea

rebar set with epoxy in a tube of the proper size is quite strong

this has reminded me i have a wonky sack truck Rolling Eyes

ps solid wheels are a bit hard but blowup ones need "slime"to deal with holes etc
JB

I've gone with 10" pneumatic wheels as the smallest pneumatic I can find. I want the shock absorption of pneumatic but as small as possible for access through doorways etc. That seems to come up with a 16mm bore size. Had I gone with smaller solid wheels I could have used a 12mm bore and made an axle from 600mm of threaded M12 bar but I may now go with an steel tub reinforced with something through the middle, either a threaded bar and use that directly to bolt the wheels on or, more likely, any bar that comes to hand and fix the wheels with split rings and a sprung washer to give some compression on the hub and stop the beast rattling.

Strength should be too much of an issue as I'm after a 600mm axle with a maximum load of perhaps 50 - 60Kg so it shouldn't be too prone to collapsing.
dpack

i think mine is about 480mm which does tight corners .the frame is very robust but i have overloaded it to a couple of hundred kg of dead pig in a tub of salt etc etc hence the wonky axle.

tis amazing how much more mass than you might expect can go on a trolley and still be ok to pull around

ace on flatish places but a wheel barrow is best off road
RichardW

Threaded bar is not good as an axle that will have a plastic wheel on it. The wear will be accelerated.

Do you need an axle? Would two stubs be better? Ok the frame will need to be stronger. You could then use a bolt with a smooth shank. Weld two nuts to the body & feed the bolt through the wheel into the nuts / body. Sorts the axle & holding it on in one go.
gregotyn

Allthough threaded bar is available in 16mm you would need to make provision to either double nut the outside ends or put some string on the thread before you put the nut on. I have a magnet on wheels and the nuts supplied on the 'machine' were constantly falling off, I fixed this problem with a bit of poly string-doesn't rot when wet. I would use a farmers spring clip and the 2 washers for ease of removing the wheels as they would occupy less than a nut at 16mm as they can be supplied in small sizes.
onemanband

Threaded bar is not good as an axle that will have a plastic wheel on it. The wear will be accelerated.


Yep and to a lesser degree will wear a metal wheel or give too much resistance under load.
Also a 16mm threaded bar will be a tad under 16mm so it won't be as snug a fit as a plain 16mm bar.
Threaded bar is also only mild steel so not suitable if there is too much unsupported length.
OTOH it is easy to work with and would work for some applications
Yep a shanked bolt is a better way to go. Motorcycle wheel/swingarm spindles are good as they are hardened.
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'Starlock' washers is the name of those push on jobbies to secure wheels
Ty Gwyn

Get the ends of a 25mm machined down to 16mm,2 washers and split pin,job done.
JB

Well I'm going with 16mm steel tube and I'll try split pins as a first option. If that seems too weak or to flex too much I'll reinforce it with a piece of M12 or M10 threaded bar down the middle.
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