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stumbling goat

Insulating the outside of a single brick skin building

Hoping that someone can give me some suggestions please?

I have a single brick skin building that I wish to make better insulated against the cold. Currently it is timber clad. It has rounded ends.

Once I have stripped off the timber cladding I am hoping to find a way to insulate it with at least 2"/50mm celotex or similar, more if I can and then reclad it in timber, or coloured UPVc cladding. I also have to work out a way of accommodating the inward opening door. That may be got around with a steel frame fixed to the existing brick door surround?

Is there some art of aluminium fixing that I can use to fix to the single brick skin that will then take an anchor for the new cladding? Or will I have to think again and maybe insulate the inside? That would be easier but I would lose valuable space from an already small room.

sg
Nature'sgrafter

something like this http://www.jewson.co.uk/building-materials/thermal-insulation/multi-foils-insulation/products/IYSQ1410/ybs-superquilt-multi-layered-foil-insulation-10-x-15m/
is what you need stapled onto existing timber frame add thin batten on top to fix your cladding onto job done.
Ty Gwyn

The one question i would ask before you spend is,

Has it got a damp course,wall and floor.?
onemanband

Silly questions ? ........
Will your roof overhang allow for extra 2 inches ?
Why do you need to move door ?
stumbling goat

Not silly questions at all OMB.

The roof issue is not a problem. It is all under a huge canopy.

The DPM is an issue but as I can not control that or affect it I have to accept that it may be compromised. That said, I shall leave it off the ground by 100mm, so the brisk skin is on footings, but the outer covering will be floating by 100mm ish.

sg
onemanband

If you've got plenty roof overhang, what about building a seperate outer leaf instead of using batons?
2 courses of brick, then dpc, then 4X2 sole plate, then stud wall and cladding.
It's cladding not a load bearing wall so footings for brickwork can be minimal.
Provide lateral restraint to stud wall with metal straps and/or fit 4X2 head plate to canopy.

I don't deal with timber cavity walls so can't comment on vapour barriers and insulation methods.
boisdevie1

If you've got plenty roof overhang, what about building a seperate outer leaf instead of using batons?
2 courses of brick, then dpc, then 4X2 sole plate, then stud wall and cladding.
It's cladding not a load bearing wall so footings for brickwork can be minimal.
Provide lateral restraint to stud wall with metal straps and/or fit 4X2 head plate to canopy.

I don't deal with timber cavity walls so can't comment on vapour barriers and insulation methods.


That's overkill. You don't need brick. The roof is already supported so you just need a skin of insulation, waterproof membrane and then something decorative (T and G) to hide it all.
onemanband

If you've got plenty roof overhang, what about building a seperate outer leaf instead of using batons?
2 courses of brick, then dpc, then 4X2 sole plate, then stud wall and cladding.
It's cladding not a load bearing wall so footings for brickwork can be minimal.
Provide lateral restraint to stud wall with metal straps and/or fit 4X2 head plate to canopy.

I don't deal with timber cavity walls so can't comment on vapour barriers and insulation methods.


That's overkill. You don't need brick. The roof is already supported so you just need a skin of insulation, waterproof membrane and then something decorative (T and G) to hide it all.


I wasn't suggesting supporting the roof.
The 2 courses of brickwork (not a full height brick wall, just 2 courses above ground) are a suitable material to have in contact with the ground and will fill the 100mm gap SG mentioned. This would provide means of incorporating a dpc, eliminate a cold spot caused by starting cladding and insulation 100mm up, and probably look better than a gap under cladding or cladding touching the ground.
A separate outer leaf will enable fitment of more insulation, provide a cavity and eliminate cold bridging.
More work - yes
Overkill - I'd say no - but that's coming from someone whose just built a garden wall 1 foot thick, 8 foot high. Laughing
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