Hmm, got me there what's the difference?
the centre of lip & spur bits are pointed, so are the leading edges that cut the surface of the timber....ie the outer circumference of the bit defines the hole to be drilled, & the centre being pointed doesn't slip as much as an ordinary HSS bit would
not a very good explanation but Google it for more detail
soaking the dowels doesn't work btw
eta too much glue actually makes joints weaker
mark
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it is likely the dowels are in tolerance and the holes are too big..
Obviously you need to use the right bit and ensure it is securely mounted - and straight.
But even then the same bit will drill different sized holes in different materials (chipboard, softwood , hardwood etc) and when drilled in different orientation to grain etc.
Always best to drill practise holes in scrap
are you using pieces cut off dowel rods or ready made dowels that are often champhered to make insertion easier?
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dpack
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if the fit is good the dowel will need a groove if using glue to allow any excess to escape
i recon half a mil less on the drill compared to the dowel for softwood/composite and same size in hardwoods
a doweling jig will help to line up holes and will also keep them strait and accurately sized
the comments re pointy drills are worth adopting as clean and tidy holes will make for a better fit
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dpack
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ps if the holes are too tight and the wood is of a splity nature the dowel can pop the wood as the moisture levels change due to the environment
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vegplot
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You can also crimp the end of the dowel using a pair of pliers. This may compress the wood enough to get a good fit into the hole. If the dowel is unfluted it will also be stronger due to the greater glue surface area.
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tahir
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are you using pieces cut off dowel rods or ready made dowels that are often champhered to make insertion easier? |
Ready made
tahir
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ps if the holes are too tight and the wood is of a splity nature the dowel can pop the wood as the moisture levels change due to the environment |
Some of them are into the end grain of ply, too tight obviously causes splits.
Have ordered a 7.5mm hopefully that will work
Bodrighy
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If you are only talking about .5mm why not just sand the dowel down?
Pete
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tahir
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If you are only talking about .5mm why not just sand the dowel down?
Pete |
Cos there's a lot of em, I think 80 odd that I need to do and I've moved onto other parts of the job so can wait
Bodrighy
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If you are only talking about .5mm why not just sand the dowel down?
Pete |
Cos there's a lot of em, I think 80 odd that I need to do and I've moved onto other parts of the job so can wait
Fair enough.
Pete
gregotyn
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I haven't read all the replies, but I make my own dowels by hammering, with a mallet, a loosely rounded piece of wood using a coarse surform, through metal with a hole drilled in to the size I want, the sides of the hole acting as the trim for the dowel. This gives me a length of dowelling which I simply cut to length, they are not perfect, but they work and are usually,near enough. If it is a job in the town then you hammer slower and keep checking and only use the best. I always cut it out of otherwise unused offcuts, and so the cost to make what size I want is nil, bar time.
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Mistress Rose
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That is the way peg for rake ends are made in green woodworking Gregotyn. You can buy tubes of various sizes to make them.
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boisdevie1
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Another handy tip. Use a pencil sharpener to shave a bit of the end of the dowel. Makes it easier to get in.
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