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Hairyloon

Wiring question.

I am wanting to wire up an illuminated bathroom mirror.
By far the easiest way to do it is to connect it to the back of the shaver socket, but I have it in mind that the regulations require that lights are on a separate circuit to sockets.
Have I got that right, or is that just a guideline?

I cannot see any proper reason to not do it that way, and it is a fair problem to do it any other way.
vegplot

I may be wrong but I was under the impression electrical work in the bathroom can only be done by a certified electrician.
Gervase

Lights and sockets should be separate circuits. If the light is to be in Zone1, you should use a low-voltage light with a transformer isolated outside Zone 1. Any installation must be IPX4 rated and protected with a 30mA RCD.
If you do any of the work yourself you must either notify your local authority Building Control dept and get it inspected or get the work signed off by a qualified electrician under Part P of the Building Regs.
henchard

I may be wrong but I was under the impression electrical work in the bathroom can only be done by a certified electrician.


Correct. However,I think you can do it yourself but have to make a Building Regulation Application. However, as far as I know Building Regs can't be enforced more than after 6 months after the work has been done. So if they don't know who is going to tell them?

see

http://www.diydoctor.org.uk/projects/partp.htm

Surely the problem is that the shaver socket will be fed by a 2.5mm cable, probably on a ring main, and the cable to the cabinet will be thinner; thus in the event of a fault this thinner cable could melt rather than the fuse back at the fuse box (if you see what I mean). Or am I just being simple?
Dee J

There's nothing that requires lights to be on a separate circuit to sockets - but there is the underlying issue that the circuit protective device (fuse,mcb etc) must be appropriate for the wiring and load of that circuit. Chances are that the wiring or construction of the mirror require either an 6Amp mcb or even a 3 Amp fused connection unit. Your shaver unit may well be on just such a circuit - or not - you need to check. Bathroom wiring needs to be supplied via a 30mA Residual Current Device (RCD) - your consumer unit/ fusebox may provide this. The installation instructions for the mirror may also require double pole isolation for maintenance - again possible via a switched fused connection unit. Also any switch, fuse or connection unit must be suitable for the environment in which it's installed (IP rating). Underlying all this is also the general requirement to verify the main installation to establish that earthing, bonding, installation methods, design and condition are safe and suitable for the modification. And finally, depending on the exact location of the work, modification of the circuit may well be notifiable under part P of the building regulations.

Dee
Nick

I may be wrong but I was under the impression electrical work in the bathroom can only be done by a certified electrician.


Correct. However,I think you can do it yourself but have to make a Building Regulation Application. However, as far as I know Building Regs can't be enforced more than after 6 months after the work has been done. So if they don't know who is going to tell them?



The insurance company, should it go wrong. And possibly the morgue. That's not to say don't do it, just to make sure you actually know what you're doing.
Hairyloon

That's not to say don't do it, just to make sure you actually know what you're doing.
I was actually going with the "if in doubt, ask" policy.
dpack

pretty much what they said re do it properly ,building control/ part p sign off

or get a part p spark to quote for all the work or to quote for just the electrical bit (ie you cut chases ,drill holes,plaster,re decorate etc as required

ps not all sparks will sign off on the basis of a meter based test cos there could be a dangeroos mistake that wont show on a meter or be visible to mk one eyeball(route of wire,kinks,dangles,lack of metal cladding armour in places at risk of holes being made etc etc etc)

to do the job then ask a spark to sign it off will be tricky,if you diy ask a spark first what they will sign off and what they insist on seeing/doing as the job is done .

pps for a single item like a lit mirror two visits would probably cost as much as one visit to do the whole job ,for a full house rewire doing the chasing/holes etc as diy can save a lot of cash if the spark is ok with that.

ppps i have seen some dreadful work done by "professional"sparks so the usual avoid cowboys advice applies
Hairyloon

The wiring has actually been installed by a "professional", I'm just connecting it up, but looking at the quality of some of his other work, I don't know whether to believe in it.

I think the plan is to get someone in to check it later...
dpack

i would get a check done now ,better to fix problems as early as possible than after you think you have finished
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