Home Page
   Articles
       links
About Us    
Traders        
Recipes            
Latest Articles
Flooring
Page Previous  1, 2
 
Post new topic   Reply to topic    Downsizer Forum Index -> Energy Efficiency and Construction/Major Projects
Author 
 Message
Nick



Joined: 02 Nov 2004
Posts: 34535
Location: Hereford
PostPosted: Wed Jan 09, 13 8:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
    

One question is how much can you afford to raise your current floor without upsetting doors and such?

genesis



Joined: 19 Oct 2010
Posts: 27
Location: Halfway up a hill near Machynlleth
PostPosted: Wed Jan 09, 13 9:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
    

No problems with doors as we havent replaced these yet. One woory was the woodburners as we have had slate hearths put down

Dee J



Joined: 22 May 2005
Posts: 342
Location: West Devon
PostPosted: Wed Jan 09, 13 3:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
    

Its almost a case of 'you can't get there from here'. Trying to lay any sort of wood floor over a potentially damp, probably un-even surface is never going to be ideal.

For our lounge floor - currently about 50mm of concrete over soil with no damp course- we have the following plan. Break-up/dig out to a depth of 250mm. Blind with sand. Lay dpc. Then 100mm concrete. 75mm rigid insulation. 18mm t&g flooring chipboard as floating floor then floorboards (probably reclaimed). At with point it should be dry, warm, level and about the same height as before.....

Starting next tuesday...
Dee

Nature'sgrafter



Joined: 22 Feb 2012
Posts: 527
Location: Sanday , Orkney
PostPosted: Wed Jan 09, 13 5:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
    

I agree wit dee take up the slate dig down ETC .

onemanband



Joined: 26 Dec 2010
Posts: 1473
Location: NCA90
PostPosted: Wed Jan 09, 13 5:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
    

Wot Dee j said
Or similarly dig out and lay floorboards on joists, on brick piers, with insulation between/underneath joists.

Not saying that digging out is the only solution, rather that the 2 solutions above are tried and tested ways.
It may be possible to lay some form of damp proof layer, then batons and floorboards but there is more potential for damp issues and could raise floor level too much (unless you use spindley batons in which case floor could be bouncy)

Ty Gwyn



Joined: 22 Sep 2010
Posts: 4562
Location: Lampeter
PostPosted: Wed Jan 09, 13 8:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
    

As above,also the slate slabs are worth Good money,that people pay to lay kitchen floors.

genesis



Joined: 19 Oct 2010
Posts: 27
Location: Halfway up a hill near Machynlleth
PostPosted: Wed Jan 09, 13 8:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
    

Many thanks.I didnt think it would be simple. It would be a shame to put concrete over the slabs after we've just removed the concrete (there was no dpm etc and was causing damp problems. Many thanks

genesis



Joined: 19 Oct 2010
Posts: 27
Location: Halfway up a hill near Machynlleth
PostPosted: Wed Jan 09, 13 8:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
    

Keep us posted Dee and good luck!!!

Dee J



Joined: 22 May 2005
Posts: 342
Location: West Devon
PostPosted: Thu Jan 10, 13 12:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
    

Of course, in some ways we are starting flom a slightly different point... you have a slate floor with a history - its part of the fabric of your house. And there's nothing wrong with slate over soil as long as its not covered and it's allowed to breath. In a previous house we had thick quarry tiles over soil - and once the lino, newspaper, screed and vinyl tiles were removed it was no trouble at all. But our current house has suffered much over its 3-400 years. Whatever previous floors were - packed earth/clunch/slate - they've long since gone - so I think we're allowed our bit of cultural vandalism. As for the slightly suspect green credentials of our chosen materials... our local climate (edge of Dartmoor) is so hostile that biodegradeable materials do just that - very quickly. At least the improved insulation and improved damp resistance should reduce the fuel bill.

Dee

Cathryn



Joined: 16 Jul 2005
Posts: 19856
Location: Ceredigion
PostPosted: Thu Jan 10, 13 6:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
    

We have recently lifted a large expanse of slate floor, several hundred years old. Dug out the area and then laid the necessary ground source heating system and then relaid the floor (okay not me personally). It is beautiful and even set to the lowest it is warm underfoot.

Another possible option.

onemanband



Joined: 26 Dec 2010
Posts: 1473
Location: NCA90
PostPosted: Fri Jan 11, 13 12:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
    

Cathryn wrote:
...... ground source heating system ....

Another possible option.


Do you mean 'underfloor heating' ?

Yes good option - re-use old floor slate, but bring the sub-base upto modern standards. And underfloor electric heating mats are easy enough to install (as opposed to hot water systems)

Cathryn



Joined: 16 Jul 2005
Posts: 19856
Location: Ceredigion
PostPosted: Fri Jan 11, 13 2:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
    

Well, an underfloor heating system that is powered by some electricity which runs the ground source system? You know what I mean.

vegplot



Joined: 19 Apr 2007
Posts: 21301
Location: Bethesda, Gwynedd
PostPosted: Thu May 15, 14 11:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
    

I would avoid putting down concrete as it will force moisture up through the walls creating a damp problem or making an existing one worse.

If it were me I would investigate digging out the slate floor, filling with foam glass gravel (insulating and will stop rising damp), cover with limecrete and finally the wood floor. This will allow the floor to breath without fear of damp getting to the wood.

Have a look at the Ty Mawr sweb site at https://www.lime.org.uk/


dpack



Joined: 02 Jul 2005
Posts: 45374
Location: yes
PostPosted: Thu Aug 21, 14 12:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
    

i agree with all of the above,do a proper job on such things as long term it will be nicer and cheaper than doing it properly later.

Hairyloon



Joined: 20 Nov 2008
Posts: 15425
Location: Today I are mostly being in Yorkshire.
PostPosted: Wed Dec 10, 14 10:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
    

vegplot wrote:
I would avoid putting down concrete as it will force moisture up through the walls creating a damp problem or making an existing one worse.

How and why does that happen, would it not be stopped by the damp proof course?

Post new topic   Reply to topic    Downsizer Forum Index -> Energy Efficiency and Construction/Major Projects All times are GMT
Page Previous  1, 2
Page 2 of 2
View Latest Posts View Latest Posts

 

Archive
Powered by php-BB © 2001, 2005 php-BB Group
Style by marsjupiter.com, released under GNU (GNU/GPL) license.
Copyright © 2004 marsjupiter.com