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Willow cuttings for re-growing
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Slim



Joined: 05 Mar 2006
Posts: 6533
Location: New England (In the US of A)
PostPosted: Wed Nov 18, 15 12:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
    

IIRC a lot of has to do with # of buds and position on the branch it's taken from. The whole thing has the capacity to root, but it'll do best if you take it from around the middle section of the branch and if it has at least a couple buds below ground and a couple buds above ground.

Falstaff



Joined: 27 May 2009
Posts: 1014

PostPosted: Wed Nov 18, 15 10:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
    

Time of year is paramount.

Coming intoi dormancy you're thinking ""Hardwood cuttings" - but just get some willow (about 1" diameter) - stick it in the right way up ! and dip the bottom end in rooting hormone before doing so.

12" long and leave around 2-3" above ground - set 100 and you'll have plenty for your needs x

Tavascarow



Joined: 06 Aug 2006
Posts: 8407
Location: South Cornwall
PostPosted: Thu Nov 19, 15 1:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
    

Falstaff wrote:
Time of year is paramount.

Coming intoi dormancy you're thinking ""Hardwood cuttings" - but just get some willow (about 1" diameter) - stick it in the right way up ! and dip the bottom end in rooting hormone before doing so.

12" long and leave around 2-3" above ground - set 100 and you'll have plenty for your needs x
With willow you don't even need to worry about which way up.
& you certainly don't need rooting powder.
Something I've noticed is they are a lot easier if they have no competition. Weed growth can smother them quite easily in the first twelve months when they are getting established.
A temporary planting mulch is advised.
Once they are away there's not a lot other than brambles that can stop them.

Rob R



Joined: 28 Oct 2004
Posts: 31902
Location: York
PostPosted: Thu Nov 19, 15 6:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
    

Tavascarow wrote:
Falstaff wrote:
Time of year is paramount.

Coming intoi dormancy you're thinking ""Hardwood cuttings" - but just get some willow (about 1" diameter) - stick it in the right way up ! and dip the bottom end in rooting hormone before doing so.

12" long and leave around 2-3" above ground - set 100 and you'll have plenty for your needs x
With willow you don't even need to worry about which way up.
& you certainly don't need rooting powder.
Something I've noticed is they are a lot easier if they have no competition. Weed growth can smother them quite easily in the first twelve months when they are getting established.
A temporary planting mulch is advised.
Once they are away there's not a lot other than brambles that can stop them.


My best establishment was in the wood pile

katie



Joined: 13 Dec 2004
Posts: 713
Location: midlands
PostPosted: Thu Nov 19, 15 7:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
    

I usually stick them in water to root, then pot up and grow on for when I need them. Yes, I know you can just stick them in but this works too.

Falstaff



Joined: 27 May 2009
Posts: 1014

PostPosted: Thu Nov 19, 15 10:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
    

katie wrote:
I usually stick them in water to root, then pot up and grow on for when I need them. Yes, I know you can just stick them in but this works too.


I think that's quite important katie - yes you can stick 'em in upside down with no rooting powder and little water and a few may fight their way through the obstacles you've put in their way and grow - but why not, in the natural scheme of things do your best to get a decent result ?

Rob R



Joined: 28 Oct 2004
Posts: 31902
Location: York
PostPosted: Fri Nov 20, 15 12:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
    

No, not a few, 90%+

Tavascarow



Joined: 06 Aug 2006
Posts: 8407
Location: South Cornwall
PostPosted: Fri Nov 20, 15 4:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
    

Falstaff wrote:
katie wrote:
I usually stick them in water to root, then pot up and grow on for when I need them. Yes, I know you can just stick them in but this works too.


I think that's quite important katie - yes you can stick 'em in upside down with no rooting powder and little water and a few may fight their way through the obstacles you've put in their way and grow - but why not, in the natural scheme of things do your best to get a decent result ?
Willow will root 95% without rooting powder.
The plant carries it's own rooting hormone under the bark. It doesn't need extra. It's a waste.
I haven't experimented with planting upside down, I always plant mine right way up but I've read (from the webpage of about the best UK willow nursery IMHO) it makes little difference but takes a little longer.
As I said earlier they don't like weed competition. I plant mine through mypex. A longer cutting planted deeper will do better than a shorter one because soil moisture is more consistent farther down. But if you don't mind regularly watering them, shorter cuttings will root as readily as longer.
I spent ten years working in the nursery industry as a propogator & grow basket willows for craft, it's something I know a little bit about.

Tavascarow



Joined: 06 Aug 2006
Posts: 8407
Location: South Cornwall
PostPosted: Fri Nov 20, 15 6:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
    

From the Windrush Willows propagation factsheet (download on page link in previous post).
Quote:
The easiest way to propagate the plant is to use a 9” stem cutting (Slip) which is taken from the original plant when dormant (1st December to 31st March). Longer tip cuttings can also be used where a single stem is desired. Cuttings are normally despatched in labelled plastic bags and should be planted immediately. If this is not possible store for up to 2 months in a cool refrigerator (retain in plastic bags to avoid desiccation).

The ground into which the cutting is to be planted should be weed free, a hole is made 10% deeper than the cutting is to be planted and 10% wider than the stem diameter at the butt end. With a 9” Slip, plant so that 8” is under ground, with longer stem cutting plant to a depth of 12”, the inclusion of organic matter into the soil is always a benefit.
Insert the slip with the lateral buds pointing upwards ^ (although it will grow after planting upside down in most cases). Most willows are pretty tolerant of soil and wind conditions however they do best on heavier soils or where the water table is high. Firm the soil around the cutting very well to exclude air pockets. Caution willow roots travel a long way and will seek out drains and other sources of moisture. They also transpire a large quantity of water and will tend to dry out a heavy clay soil – so do not plant near to any building or foundations. We recommend a planting distance of 1.5 times the height you will be allowing the plant to grow too from any structure, building or drain.

If planting a row of willow for annual pollarding or coppiceing then a space of 18 to 24” is recommended between plants. Annual cutting will maintain plant vigour and produce multiple stems, younger stems tend to be more highly coloured. Some coloured bark varieties do not tend to develop their full colour until just before leaf drop.
Commercial basket willows are planted closer, usually about 12" between plants & 18" to 24" between rows if machine harvested.
If hand cutting spacing about 12" square will produce the finest & highest quality rods.

Mistress Rose



Joined: 21 Jul 2011
Posts: 15539

PostPosted: Fri Nov 20, 15 7:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
    

I did have some willow fail once, but the land was pretty well all gravel, and dried out before the slips had taken. Otherwise, I don't think you have a problem.

Falstaff



Joined: 27 May 2009
Posts: 1014

PostPosted: Sat Nov 21, 15 2:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
    

Falstaff wrote:
katie wrote:
I usually stick them in water to root, then pot up and grow on for when I need them. Yes, I know you can just stick them in but this works too.


I think that's quite important katie - yes you can stick 'em in upside down with no rooting powder and little water and a few may fight their way through the obstacles you've put in their way and grow - but why not, in the natural scheme of things do your best to get a decent result ?


TAva - wrote :-
".........I haven't experimented with planting upside down,................"

How odd that I should think you said :

Tava wrote :-
"..........With willow you don't even need to worry about which way up. .............."

Tavascarow



Joined: 06 Aug 2006
Posts: 8407
Location: South Cornwall
PostPosted: Sat Nov 21, 15 4:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
    

Falstaff wrote:
Falstaff wrote:
katie wrote:
I usually stick them in water to root, then pot up and grow on for when I need them. Yes, I know you can just stick them in but this works too.


I think that's quite important katie - yes you can stick 'em in upside down with no rooting powder and little water and a few may fight their way through the obstacles you've put in their way and grow - but why not, in the natural scheme of things do your best to get a decent result ?


TAva - wrote :-
".........I haven't experimented with planting upside down,................"

How odd that I should think you said :

Tava wrote :-
"..........With willow you don't even need to worry about which way up. .............."
I believe what I've read from Windrush willows & elsewhere that it makes little difference.
They know more than you or I about the Salix genus & the best ways to propagate it.
Of the hundreds I've planted I'm sure I will have accidentally planted a few the wrong way up but haven't put it to empirical experimentation .

NorthernMonkeyGirl



Joined: 10 Apr 2011
Posts: 4584
Location: Peeping over your shoulder
PostPosted: Sun Nov 22, 15 8:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
    

They are currently in a bucket of water while I get around to doing something with them, so maybe they'll root anyway

They're for a hedge / fedge / living fence thingy so I plan to space them fairly close so the stems can be woven together in time.

Dry soil is not currently a limiting factor

dpack



Joined: 02 Jul 2005
Posts: 45374
Location: yes
PostPosted: Mon Nov 23, 15 12:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
    

if you plant them in two rows fairly close (the rows not the cuttings) is should be possible to lay the first shoots to subsequently produce verticals that can be woven which avoids the problem of the odd one failing and messing the pattern(or leaving a thin patch)

i takes an extra year or two but the end result will be far sturdier and pretty

sewing but it works with hedges

cassandra



Joined: 27 Mar 2013
Posts: 1733
Location: Tasmania Australia
PostPosted: Sat Nov 28, 15 4:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
    

I have been regularly and optimistically poking sticks in the ground for several years now - I ignore them and so some have failed to take. But i now have a clump of several varieties all growing in one spot (pussy willow, basket willow). I will be taking cuttings from this next year to poke into other spots.

Once in the ground they have been variously subjected to flooding, drought, vigorous competition and other impediments. Once they take off this does not appear to worry them.

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