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mousjoos
Joined: 05 Jun 2006 Posts: 1986 Location: VERY Sunny SW France
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tahir
Joined: 28 Oct 2004 Posts: 45432 Location: Essex
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tahir
Joined: 28 Oct 2004 Posts: 45432 Location: Essex
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Nick
Joined: 02 Nov 2004 Posts: 34535 Location: Hereford
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dpack
Joined: 02 Jul 2005 Posts: 45516 Location: yes
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tahir
Joined: 28 Oct 2004 Posts: 45432 Location: Essex
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tahir
Joined: 28 Oct 2004 Posts: 45432 Location: Essex
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dpack
Joined: 02 Jul 2005 Posts: 45516 Location: yes
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Posted: Fri May 27, 16 10:45 am Post subject: |
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so long as you coat them evenly and dry them flat on several bearers,turning at intervals so as both faces dry at a similar rate well seasoned timber should not warp or split much.seasoned timber wont absorb as much water as fast dried stuff would
if you rough trimmed the edges to parallel which would remove most of the softwood/bark before treatment the final machining should deal with any minor warps.
depending on conditions drying might be a few days to a couple of weeks .
it would be good to dry the rough planks before machining/joinery to a similar moisture content that they will experience once made up into a table, even if you were not treating them for worms, as that will reduce the chance of the finished table swelling,shrinking or warping when put in a warm dry room.
having thought about the whole thing i recon the best option would be to rough cut to give parallel planks,kiln to 70c to kill any wildlife,rest planks in house to adjust moisture,machine planks to accurate size,do the joinery,finish the surfaces.
if you go down the wet treatment route cut to parallel,treat,dry to touch dry in a shed then dry to room moisture turning throughout the process,machine,joinery,finish
either way it might take a couple of weeks before you get to the joinery stage,with nice timber like that rushing things would be a bad idea.
if i am laying a floor or suchlike i try to always let the timber adjust to it's new location before starting to fit it into place.
if you are planning on having the planks machined into joinery timber the machinist might have or know of a suitable kiln.for a table top tongue and groove is good so i would be looking for somebody with the right machine to edge my planks as im a bit wobbly with a combo plane for such accurate work.
good machining makes the difference between "rustic diy" and "future antique"
unfortunately i have been out of the trades game for so long that gerald would be about 110yrs old by now but there must be good machinists in the greater london area,the folk who do stuff for listed buildings,bespoke fitted furniture etc would be able to do the machining and although not cheap will be good value in the greater scheme of ending up with a super table.(they would want to know the worms were decidedly dead before they mow the planks into shape though). |
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tahir
Joined: 28 Oct 2004 Posts: 45432 Location: Essex
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tahir
Joined: 28 Oct 2004 Posts: 45432 Location: Essex
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dpack
Joined: 02 Jul 2005 Posts: 45516 Location: yes
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dpack
Joined: 02 Jul 2005 Posts: 45516 Location: yes
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tahir
Joined: 28 Oct 2004 Posts: 45432 Location: Essex
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tahir
Joined: 28 Oct 2004 Posts: 45432 Location: Essex
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dpack
Joined: 02 Jul 2005 Posts: 45516 Location: yes
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