Ah, the deck rink.....
it should be ok but as you should dip any cut ends in preservative it is easy to give it all a coat while it is loose sticks.if they are lying next to each other a spray or roller is quick for spreading and turning to all 4 sides is far better than painting a structure.
i have some joist timbers used as a raised bed and they seem fine touching soil and exposed to rain etc as a seat top so i recon the stuff used for indoor preserving works ok outside.
re slippery decking there are non slip coatings and maintenance dressings but keeping it clean with a pressure washer reduces the problem a lot (pub knowledge).
||I'll production line creosote the smooth timber. The actual decking is composite, so not an issue.|
dip the ends first and let the capillary action slurp for 30 mins each end ,it isnt time wasted and treating ends seems to be more important than middles based on replacing lots of rotten timbers in a variety of structures over several decades.
if you are drilling holes for bolts remember to do them as best you can when "painting" ,when fitting screws,coach screws etc give em a quick squirt as you drive em in .use either non rusting fixings or rust resistant coated ones (painted mild steel is carp for brackets etc )
ppe matters with preservatives cos they kill stuff
||Yes, don't be fooled into thinking that pressure treatment means the whole thing is rot resistant. It is a thicker barrier than paint, but still just a barrier.|
||I agree with the others about additional treatment, and in addition if you can raise it off the ground with bricks it will last a lot longer. Make sure whatever you raise it on is firm and won't move with time.|