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bent disc cutter
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Ty Gwyn



Joined: 22 Sep 2010
Posts: 4562
Location: Lampeter
PostPosted: Mon Nov 30, 15 9:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
    

If your worried about the nut`s coming undone,and welding a blob could be a problem,one sure way to stop the undoing is to cut a slot in the bolt with a junior hacksaw before assembly ,then splay the slot after tightening the nut.

GrahamH



Joined: 23 May 2015
Posts: 523

PostPosted: Mon Nov 30, 15 10:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
    

Difficult cutting s/s bolts with hacksaw.....might be best to damage the threads with hammer and cold chisel.

RichardW



Joined: 24 Aug 2006
Posts: 8443
Location: Llyn Peninsular North Wales
PostPosted: Mon Nov 30, 15 4:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
    

Forget the mig. The cost of sorting it out to weld ali would be more than the job is worth. You will need different gas, different wire & to change the liner in the torch. It will also take lots of practice to do.

vegplot



Joined: 19 Apr 2007
Posts: 21301
Location: Bethesda, Gwynedd
PostPosted: Mon Nov 30, 15 5:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
    

A trick to bending aluminium and getting the heat just right is to rub the surface with tablet soap. As you heat the part the soap will eventually turn brown which just happens to be the point at which aluminium is most malleable but before it melts. However, it will lose any strength gained by prior heat treatment so this technique shouldn't be used on critical parts that have been heat treated.

Falstaff



Joined: 27 May 2009
Posts: 1014

PostPosted: Mon Nov 30, 15 7:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
    

vegplot wrote:
A trick to bending aluminium and getting the heat just right is to rub the surface with tablet soap. As you heat the part the soap will eventually turn brown which just happens to be the point at which aluminium is most malleable but before it melts. However, it will lose any strength gained by prior heat treatment so this technique shouldn't be used on critical parts that have been heat treated.


That sounds fun - I might give that a try !

Mistress Rose



Joined: 21 Jul 2011
Posts: 15539

PostPosted: Tue Dec 01, 15 6:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
    

You could use Loctite to keep the bolts from coming undone. I hate the stuff, but that is what it was designed for.

Falstaff



Joined: 27 May 2009
Posts: 1014

PostPosted: Tue Dec 01, 15 11:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
    

RichardW wrote:
Forget the mig. The cost of sorting it out to weld ali would be more than the job is worth. You will need different gas, different wire & to change the liner in the torch. It will also take lots of practice to do.


I didn't know I'd have to change the liner - but at the end of the shift - if you have the mig - why not play with it ?

I'd rather play with some plate first though in honesty !

Falstaff



Joined: 27 May 2009
Posts: 1014

PostPosted: Tue Dec 01, 15 11:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
    

Mistress Rose wrote:
You could use Loctite to keep the bolts from coming undone. I hate the stuff, but that is what it was designed for.


Good poinjt MR - I do have some locktite "bearing fit" - but like you I don't like the original - (I don't often use "Hermatite" either )

GrahamH



Joined: 23 May 2015
Posts: 523

PostPosted: Tue Dec 01, 15 11:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
    

Falstaff,

If you had a British motorbike in the sixties you had to have gallons of Hermatite Red and Green.

In the late sixties I had a choice between a new Honda which came with electric start, indicators, etc or a new Triumph which came with a free oil drip tray.

Falstaff



Joined: 27 May 2009
Posts: 1014

PostPosted: Wed Dec 02, 15 12:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
    

GrahamH wrote:
Falstaff,

If you had a British motorbike in the sixties you had to have gallons of Hermatite Red and Green.

In the late sixties I had a choice between a new Honda which came with electric start, indicators, etc or a new Triumph which came with a free oil drip tray.


Doesn't that sit with a load of truth Graham ? - my old man's mate gave us a pillion ride on the back of a 305 Honda way back then - Jeezuus - there was nothing british which would do what it did - even tho' it sounded like a tin of nails rattling away !

GrahamH



Joined: 23 May 2015
Posts: 523

PostPosted: Wed Dec 02, 15 12:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
    

Well Falstaff, as you obviously don't keep normal sleeping hours.....gone midnight again......


Have you decided on the way to repair the handles?

Falstaff



Joined: 27 May 2009
Posts: 1014

PostPosted: Wed Dec 02, 15 1:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
    

GrahamH wrote:
Well Falstaff, as you obviously don't keep normal sleeping hours.....gone midnight again......


Have you decided on the way to repair the handles?


x x not yet G - I'll get there but it's been stood in the garage for 20 years = no desperate rush !

Looking like Cu tube and some bolts atm

GrahamH



Joined: 23 May 2015
Posts: 523

PostPosted: Wed Dec 02, 15 1:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
    

Falstaff.

Sounds OK and a check of the nuts prior to use should suffice.

I'm at the airport en route Macau, 9:16 in the morning, so this time OK for me.

I recently bought a Japanese brush cutter, mostly alloy tubes, 2 stroke petrol engine, definitely wouldn't last twenty years just sitting.

RichardW



Joined: 24 Aug 2006
Posts: 8443
Location: Llyn Peninsular North Wales
PostPosted: Wed Dec 02, 15 8:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
    

Falstaff wrote:


I didn't know I'd have to change the liner - but at the end of the shift - if you have the mig - why not play with it ?

I'd rather play with some plate first though in honesty !


The steel line (like a net curtain wire) will "pick up" the soft alloy. Even if you have the right teflon liner it will now be full of steel which will affect the weld. Its also better if you have a short torch as you need to keep the feed as straight as possible. You can get adapters that puts the roll on the gun end that gets round some of the issues. But not good for access.

Having to rent a second cylinder might still put you off. Also migging alloy is not that easy or neat.

If you do want to go this route the I suggest you visit https://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/

Falstaff



Joined: 27 May 2009
Posts: 1014

PostPosted: Thu Dec 03, 15 2:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
    

RichardW wrote:
Falstaff wrote:


I didn't know I'd have to change the liner - but at the end of the shift - if you have the mig - why not play with it ?

I'd rather play with some plate first though in honesty !


The steel line (like a net curtain wire) will "pick up" the soft alloy. Even if you have the right teflon liner it will now be full of steel which will affect the weld. Its also better if you have a short torch as you need to keep the feed as straight as possible. You can get adapters that puts the roll on the gun end that gets round some of the issues. But not good for access.

Having to rent a second cylinder might still put you off. Also migging alloy is not that easy or neat.

If you do want to go this route the I suggest you visit https://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/


Richard, I'm really quite good with Oxy-Acetylene which as far as I can see means I should go straight to TiG.

However, both of these have a significant cost inplication for one who (such as I) doesn't weld that often

So I'm embarking on the "cheap and nasty" route which means I have to learn to get the best out of a MiG that I can !

Thanks for your advice.

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