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This winter's woodworking projects
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tahir



Joined: 28 Oct 2004
Posts: 45384
Location: Essex
PostPosted: Sun Nov 06, 16 1:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
    

I think I understand, thanks as always

Nick



Joined: 02 Nov 2004
Posts: 34535
Location: Hereford
PostPosted: Sun Nov 06, 16 6:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
    

And yet you still have time to gad about watching The Bard of Barking.

(Are you in work all day tomorrow? I've no real idea what my plans are, but I'll be near you.)

tahir



Joined: 28 Oct 2004
Posts: 45384
Location: Essex
PostPosted: Sun Nov 06, 16 9:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
    

I'll be at work from 12ish I reckon

Nick



Joined: 02 Nov 2004
Posts: 34535
Location: Hereford
PostPosted: Sun Nov 06, 16 9:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
    

tahir wrote:
I'll be at work from 12ish I reckon


I'm not planning on leaving home much before 10.30. I gave up working full days some years ago.

tahir



Joined: 28 Oct 2004
Posts: 45384
Location: Essex
PostPosted: Thu Nov 10, 16 2:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
    

MJ, a few questions

I've decided to go with hinged doors (this is on the small unit with the single drawer above) I'm leaving 3mm gap between carcass and door, is that OK?

How much gap do I need to allow between doors?

Should the doors be in 25mm or 18mm (I will have both thicknesses available)?

I've attached the plans



Click to download file

mousjoos



Joined: 05 Jun 2006
Posts: 1986
Location: VERY Sunny SW France
PostPosted: Thu Nov 10, 16 2:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
    

tahir wrote:
MJ, a few questions

I've decided to go with hinged doors (this is on the small unit with the single drawer above) I'm leaving 3mm gap between carcass and door, is that OK?

***The gap is generally dictated by the type of hinge used ie if you use a traditional butt hinge then the thickness of one leaf of the hinge is the gap most likely left around the door. On a cabinet this size you could probably use "flush fit" hinges...basically a butt hinge where one leaf is smaller & fit within the other...if in doubt, ask your ironmonger....but usually 2mm is more than enough.

How much gap do I need to allow between doors?

***See above answer. All gaps should be equal

Should the doors be in 25mm or 18mm (I will have both thicknesses available)?

***18mm should be more the adequate...weight is always a consideration

I've attached the plans



Click to download file
[/b]

tahir



Joined: 28 Oct 2004
Posts: 45384
Location: Essex
PostPosted: Thu Nov 10, 16 3:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
    

Thanks mj

dpack



Joined: 02 Jul 2005
Posts: 45322
Location: yes
PostPosted: Thu Nov 10, 16 3:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
    

just a thought but blum hinges can make for a very tidy job with such cupboards , it needs a slightly different design to the door arrangements but overall it is easier to get a perfect fit than with traditional hinge types.

based on many i have made/fitted/commissioned.

tahir



Joined: 28 Oct 2004
Posts: 45384
Location: Essex
PostPosted: Thu Nov 10, 16 3:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
    

I think I'll go for euro hinges, have just been looking at them on hafele site

dpack



Joined: 02 Jul 2005
Posts: 45322
Location: yes
PostPosted: Thu Nov 10, 16 4:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
    

examples

the hickory product does not require machined holes in doors/frames but will not be as stable or last as well as the types that do.

having used a few makes over the decades the genuine blum seem to last very well

it seems a bit complex compared to butts or flush but it is far easier to get the doors to fit using adjustable hinges ,good call

sean
Downsizer Moderator


Joined: 28 Oct 2004
Posts: 42207
Location: North Devon
PostPosted: Thu Nov 10, 16 4:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
    

tahir wrote:
I think I'll go for euro hinges, have just been looking at them on hafele site


Better get it built before they activate Article 50 then.

tahir



Joined: 28 Oct 2004
Posts: 45384
Location: Essex
PostPosted: Thu Nov 10, 16 4:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
    

sean wrote:
tahir wrote:
I think I'll go for euro hinges, have just been looking at them on hafele site


Better get it built before they activate Article 50 then.


We don't need that pressure Ron. (actually cots are very high pressure, for some they generally want them whilst the child is still quite small)

mousjoos



Joined: 05 Jun 2006
Posts: 1986
Location: VERY Sunny SW France
PostPosted: Thu Nov 10, 16 4:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
    

So Blum & Euro appear to be the same beast

Easiest way to ensure accuracy with Blum / Euro.....correct hinge cutter (drills a blind hole & has cutting wings ensuring clean edges to the hole)

Edge of the hole (on the door) should be 4mm from the edge of the door.

Small pillar drill is best, but a router with a 3/8 or 10mm collet can be used instead

dpack



Joined: 02 Jul 2005
Posts: 45322
Location: yes
PostPosted: Thu Nov 10, 16 6:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
    

there are a variety of design details and material specs among the various brands, my advice is you get what you pay for and some are very different in quality .

blum.inc make high quality ones with good tolerances in screw cutting and part fitting, thick nickel plating and solid parts.

some makers dont

tahir



Joined: 28 Oct 2004
Posts: 45384
Location: Essex
PostPosted: Thu Nov 10, 16 6:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
    

I found to my cost that using cheap crap doesn't work, I have a stack of cheap metal drawer sides/runners that I've decided not to use.

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