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jema
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Joined: 28 Oct 2004
Posts: 27152
Location: escaped from Swindon
PostPosted: Fri Feb 19, 21 4:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
    

Initial order of about £300 worth of timber and polycarb made.
I expect I'll need more, but that's enough to get to free delivery on stuff and will do for now.

I'm also looking at my rotting top deck area which I'm pencilling in for a few months time.

I'm figuring rather than try piecemeal repair, slicing out a 2.5m x 3m section will be most sensible.
I just can't imagine that issues are localised to what I can see and so creating the working area to be able to see whats going on will help and it will all need work anyway.
I guess it's about 3 foot off the ground, there's a conservatory section to the right of the main area of work, where you can feel that the floor ain't winning prizes for being level anymore

jema
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Joined: 28 Oct 2004
Posts: 27152
Location: escaped from Swindon
PostPosted: Fri Feb 19, 21 7:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
    

I'm also thinking that if I put 4 1.8m universal concrete fence posts down in the marshy pit. I should be able to create a timber scaffold that will support extending the decking as well as provide a possible base for a lower deck.

dpack



Joined: 02 Jul 2005
Posts: 39871
Location: yes
PostPosted: Sat Feb 20, 21 8:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
    

yep, getting some more piling at the lowest levels will help stabilize the whole thing

there are various pins above there, getting some more in low would be wise

if the whole is pegged into a lump, at least on the surface, the whole thing moves a bit rather than wrinkling and sliding in parts

re the greenhouse thing, what slim said re brackets etc is good advice as is designing in a storm lashing over it and fastened to 4 good ground anchors
300kg BS stainless steel wire rope is about 5 mm, easy to pad with bits of plastic pipe, eyelets etc, has a variety of fittings for ends and tensioning etc, tis quite cheap and easy to use. it lasts very well.

ps 500 kg BS is much harder to work with and the gain is irrelevant cos the house blew away and the landscape is apocalyptic

jema
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Joined: 28 Oct 2004
Posts: 27152
Location: escaped from Swindon
PostPosted: Fri Feb 26, 21 10:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
    

https://www.diy-fence.co.uk/product-category/fencing/fencemate-dura-post/

Looking at the area on the first decent day we seem to have had this year and the layout is not exactly good for the idea of four concrete posts.

I really just need a single support for how far I want to take the decking this year.

None of my usual suppliers stock or deliver anything other than slotted concrete posts and I need a universal one.

I am how ever seen duraposts advertised as fencing posts, would they also work as support for decking? Personally I can't really see why not?

dpack



Joined: 02 Jul 2005
Posts: 39871
Location: yes
PostPosted: Fri Feb 26, 21 2:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
    

i would be thinking a bit stronger than those look to be

jema
Downsizer Moderator


Joined: 28 Oct 2004
Posts: 27152
Location: escaped from Swindon
PostPosted: Fri Feb 26, 21 2:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
    

dpack wrote:
i would be thinking a bit stronger than those look to be


Almost no sooner than I posted I realised I had a couple of similar bits of galvanised metal that has proved indestructible for years. I may go with the logic that if it works it works, if it doesn't then what's the worst that can happen? It's hardly going to do a twin towers on us.

dpack



Joined: 02 Jul 2005
Posts: 39871
Location: yes
PostPosted: Sat Feb 27, 21 8:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
    

worst is a bit of a combi-directional slide to provide leverage and then a post bend where it meets the ground fixing mass leading to a wonky deck that needs retro-mending

for the vertical force component they look adequate, add some torques to the pivot point and buckle/fail seems plausible

3 sides and 2 rims is a fairly strong profile against bending
not as strong as 4 sides for the same mass of metal and not as "stiff" as a decent concrete post with rebar in it

for a single very solid post, big metal or reinforced concrete would be my choice

having done that much so far it seems worth waiting (and doing stuff on the above levels such as planting and cloches etc) until the right sort of materials is available for what is not just a deck support but is also one of the lowest level stability pilings

Slim



Joined: 05 Mar 2006
Posts: 5995
Location: New England (In the US of A)
PostPosted: Sat Feb 27, 21 10:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
    

I would compare the gauge of the metal you have with what you're not buying.

I imagine you could satisfy dpack's internetgineering suggestion for rigidity if you were to sink the posts, affix any needed hardware, and then fill the posts with concrete at the same time you were filling the post holes. Wouldn't take much to create the "form" to hold the concrete in, and then you're very unlikely to see that post bend!

Mistress Rose



Joined: 21 Jul 2011
Posts: 12850

PostPosted: Sat Feb 27, 21 10:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
    

That was what I was thinking too Slim. An I form filled both sides with concrete would be stronger than just a C form, so if you only have C form, you could put two back to back and make a former to fill both sides with concrete.

dpack



Joined: 02 Jul 2005
Posts: 39871
Location: yes
PostPosted: Sat Feb 27, 21 10:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
    

i like on site pour

jema
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Joined: 28 Oct 2004
Posts: 27152
Location: escaped from Swindon
PostPosted: Sat Feb 27, 21 5:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
    



Moving the two raised beds back for new construction. First real sweat broken this year.

On the posts side of things, it's going to be awhile before it happens and I'm certainly considering upping the number of posts which would obviously help load wise.

dpack



Joined: 02 Jul 2005
Posts: 39871
Location: yes
PostPosted: Sat Feb 27, 21 7:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
    

moving them is wise, it gives more scope for the last bits of terracing/deck

iirc there is quite a drop on that corner

jema
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Joined: 28 Oct 2004
Posts: 27152
Location: escaped from Swindon
PostPosted: Sat Feb 27, 21 8:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
    

Change of plan though to make this the composting area swapping with the current area. Will be more ergonomic, better light and better cosmetically.

jema
Downsizer Moderator


Joined: 28 Oct 2004
Posts: 27152
Location: escaped from Swindon
PostPosted: Fri Mar 05, 21 5:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
    



And moved. It opens up the space a lot but I am still thinking of keeping the new build to the greenhouse as just enough to extend to the staging.
That will leave plenty of room for a compost area and keep building well well away from the descent.

I note from last years posts that we were still fairly hard at things in September. I am figuring it will be a good deal less work this year. With aims in the main garden of just building the greenhouse bit and extending the decking just to the next level.
The idea is that if that is done by May, there's still June, July, August for sorting the structure out on the top deck. I really don't want any time pressure on that one.

dpack



Joined: 02 Jul 2005
Posts: 39871
Location: yes
PostPosted: Sat Mar 06, 21 9:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
    

i recon that space will be very useful and compost can go in a "dead space" somewhere

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