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tomato experiment
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dpack



Joined: 02 Jul 2005
Posts: 42259
Location: yes
PostPosted: Mon Jun 06, 22 12:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
    

i cannot remember, tt probably knows

dpack



Joined: 02 Jul 2005
Posts: 42259
Location: yes
PostPosted: Sat Jun 11, 22 11:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
    

ummm there should be a photo of them

gardeners delight and a bushy cherry one [/img]

dpack



Joined: 02 Jul 2005
Posts: 42259
Location: yes
PostPosted: Sat Jun 11, 22 11:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
    

nope, umm

dpack



Joined: 02 Jul 2005
Posts: 42259
Location: yes
PostPosted: Sun Jun 12, 22 6:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
    



they are bit bigger now

Mistress Rose



Joined: 21 Jul 2011
Posts: 13984

PostPosted: Tue Jun 14, 22 6:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
    

Mine are a bit bigger too, and have some flowers on, but they are not as big as your tomato plants.

dpack



Joined: 02 Jul 2005
Posts: 42259
Location: yes
PostPosted: Fri Jun 24, 22 10:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
    

they have topped the sticks and are on the third layer of ties

bushy as well as tall, loads of flowers

the box keeps the soil cool and moist, the shiny ups the lumens

we are going to need some bigger sticks, enter the foraged tent poles(see wind in kernow )

dpack



Joined: 02 Jul 2005
Posts: 42259
Location: yes
PostPosted: Fri Jun 24, 22 11:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
    

photo awaited updates so i got distracted.

dpack



Joined: 02 Jul 2005
Posts: 42259
Location: yes
PostPosted: Fri Jun 24, 22 12:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
    


Slim



Joined: 05 Mar 2006
Posts: 6225
Location: New England (In the US of A)
PostPosted: Fri Jun 24, 22 12:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
    

Two plants, but how many leaders? If they're meant to be large fruited you may want to consider that ratio....
I do two leaders per plant on all but my cherry type plants, and that's with ample space in a full sun location.

dpack



Joined: 02 Jul 2005
Posts: 42259
Location: yes
PostPosted: Fri Jun 24, 22 12:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
    

the taller one had the middle leader removed giving 2 pointing up and out

i have not pruned the bushy one so far

both might get a few more nibbles as time goes by

the shiny thing does seem rather effective considering that even that "light"corner is rather shady once the brambles are full grown

a non scientific finger poke suggest the roots have nice and stable conditions

dpack



Joined: 02 Jul 2005
Posts: 42259
Location: yes
PostPosted: Sat Jun 25, 22 6:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
    

i should probably pull the big lavender in a pot out from behind it, although the venerable old thing is thriving in an unusual setting

sgt.colon



Joined: 27 Jul 2009
Posts: 7262
Location: Just south of north.
PostPosted: Mon Jun 27, 22 7:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
    

They are looking nice and healthy.

I've had blossom end rot on a few of the first fruits to come though. I've changed the watering can I've been using, so I'm hoping that will solve that issue.

Slim



Joined: 05 Mar 2006
Posts: 6225
Location: New England (In the US of A)
PostPosted: Mon Jun 27, 22 9:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
    

There are a lot of myths and misunderstandings surrounding blossom end rot. Supplementing calcium typically doesn't work, as it's usually already available in the soil.
Usually happens on first fruit set because root system isn't big enough to keep up with demands of top growth yet. Helps to ensure that moisture availability is consistent. Shading this time of the year may also help.
Another management strategy is to start pruning off your lower leaves if the plants are getting big and lush.
Good reading on the topic here: https://extension.unh.edu/resource/growing-vegetables-managing-blossom-end-rot-fact-sheet-0
(Though written in the context of the northeast US)

dpack



Joined: 02 Jul 2005
Posts: 42259
Location: yes
PostPosted: Mon Jun 27, 22 11:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
    

im not as technical but removing lower shade leaves and keep the soil moist and the tops dry often gives a decent result if the base is a bit clammy or dark

Slim



Joined: 05 Mar 2006
Posts: 6225
Location: New England (In the US of A)
PostPosted: Mon Jun 27, 22 11:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
    

Once the lower leaves are mostly shaded by upper leaves they also stop contributing to sugar production as much, and could just be metabolic deadweight, respiring sugars the productive leaves getting light are making. So long as there is healthy top growth, there is rarely a downside to pruning out shaded lower leaves. Also helps to slow the progression of early blight and septoria leaf blight.

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