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cuff



Joined: 02 Apr 2006
Posts: 133

PostPosted: Tue Oct 13, 09 9:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
    

i have just finished a single storey extention aprox 3x4.5 in stone, weather pointed full opening inside and plasterered out in less than 3 week

Nick



Joined: 02 Nov 2004
Posts: 34535
Location: Hereford
PostPosted: Tue Oct 13, 09 9:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
    

How deep were the footings? What kind of roof?

cuff



Joined: 02 Apr 2006
Posts: 133

PostPosted: Tue Oct 13, 09 9:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
    

footings were.750. lean to roof marley tile 1 window 1 door

digit



Joined: 23 Aug 2009
Posts: 88
Location: Neath,South Wales
PostPosted: Wed Oct 14, 09 8:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
    

Nick wrote:
digit wrote:
Have you had a break down on the price for the demolition and excavating of foundations?


Not price, but timescale, yes. And I have the power/permission to source my own materials if I wish. He'll get better prices automatically, but I have time to devote to sourcing and travelling to collect, which could help.


The reason i ask,its ground works i do, and working it out you a looking at a days work in demolishing and excavating the footings and removing materials from site.Down my way the cost for that would be about £300

Nick



Joined: 02 Nov 2004
Posts: 34535
Location: Hereford
PostPosted: Wed Oct 14, 09 9:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
    

I think it works out at £100 a day labour, per bloke. Demolition and removal and digging out footings and floor level is flagged as two jobs. The rest of that week is filled with pouring concrete and laying blocks to floor level (iirc, no paperwork in front of me). There's also waterproofing and sealing the existing structure, so, for a £1,000 week, it doesn't sound too far away from your suggestion.

Treacodactyl
Downsizer Moderator


Joined: 28 Oct 2004
Posts: 25795
Location: Jumping on the bandwagon of opportunism
PostPosted: Wed Oct 14, 09 10:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
    

Nick wrote:
The rest of that week is filled with pouring concrete and laying blocks to floor level (iirc, no paperwork in front of me).


Are you talking time 'on the job' or time elapsed from start date to end? I understood you wait a week or so for the cement in foundations to go off before laying blocks for example.

It shouldn't affect the cost but if you're planning to have it completed by a certain date it could.

beean



Joined: 04 Jun 2009
Posts: 254

PostPosted: Wed Oct 14, 09 12:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
    

Am pretty rubbish with these things, but are you working off quotes (what they will charge you) or estimates (what they might charge you). You may find the over-optimisitc case is giving you an estimate, which would be harder to hold them to.

Nick



Joined: 02 Nov 2004
Posts: 34535
Location: Hereford
PostPosted: Wed Oct 14, 09 12:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
    

This is the case. The lower one is an estimate, the higher one a quote. Both are people known to me, and before I commit to anything, that's a discussion I'm planning on having.

dpack



Joined: 02 Jul 2005
Posts: 45372
Location: yes
PostPosted: Wed Oct 14, 09 1:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
    

quote and contract
agreed extras is extra
fair to both parties
the digging might be best done with a mini360 digger ,pouring concrete and block laying is mostly material costs
the dpm and dpc and sealing to the existing building require good spec and execution
have you talked with the local building control peeps ?

Nick



Joined: 02 Nov 2004
Posts: 34535
Location: Hereford
PostPosted: Wed Oct 14, 09 1:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
    

I have free access to a mini digger, so that's going to be a way forward in cost savings.

The DPC/DPM are almost a waste of time; it's butting up to a wood framed lath and plaster house sat on mud since 1680. Still, rules is rules.

dpack



Joined: 02 Jul 2005
Posts: 45372
Location: yes
PostPosted: Wed Oct 14, 09 10:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
    

the old part and the new part need to work with each other and meet building regs but a 1680 style add on will need daft papers
can gervase help with how to attach a set in concrete extension to a set on mud old building
i recon lead flashings have enough give to allow for drought and rain
the haporth of tar principal before one lays the keel etc
it can get a bit bit damp down your way ,but a dry timee can happen and the two may float in different ways ,the join is important

digit



Joined: 23 Aug 2009
Posts: 88
Location: Neath,South Wales
PostPosted: Thu Oct 15, 09 6:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
    

Having free access to a mini digger is great,as long as you've got someone who is experienced at operating one or you could have a days work turn into three days at your cost.

Gervase



Joined: 17 Nov 2004
Posts: 8655

PostPosted: Thu Oct 15, 09 6:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
    

True, the join is critical, as are the way the footings are excavated.
Much depends on what your place is built on - if it's subsoil rather than rock, don't dig straight down - make sure that any excavation adjoining an existing wall has a 45 degree batter to avoid undermining the compacted soil on which the building sits.
The existing building has had 300 years to settle and work out its loading on the subsoil, whereas the new build will settle slightly over time if the subsoil beneath has not been loaded before, so you'll need to to ensure that there is some sort of slip joint between old and new to allow for movement.
This can be done with two layers of vertical DPM with flexible stainless ties every other course if using blockwork. I'd also use a 1:3 hydraulic lime: coarse sand mortar (absolutely no cement) for the join. No problem with doing the rest of the extension with ordinary compo, but you need the flexibility of a lime mortar to managed the bridge.
You'll have to accept that, for a couple of years at least, the bridging joint will be sacrificial. Once the extension has bedded you can repoint down the join with a new lime mix and that should last you out.
Your builder may prefer to use a standard brickies' expansion mastic; it's OK, but if you get movement in the first year or so it's a swine to take out and replace.

Nick



Joined: 02 Nov 2004
Posts: 34535
Location: Hereford
PostPosted: Thu Oct 15, 09 12:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
    

digit wrote:
Having free access to a mini digger is great,as long as you've got someone who is experienced at operating one or you could have a days work turn into three days at your cost.


Comes with driver.

dpack



Joined: 02 Jul 2005
Posts: 45372
Location: yes
PostPosted: Thu Oct 15, 09 12:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
    

thanks gervase ,more technical than my languge
good re mini digger

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